Subject: Posted: Intro to woodworking

From: The Hobby Shop <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2014 12:41:37 -0700

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I think you're having head issues with leading. Hesitation, 
over gripping, etc. I would suggest when you go climbing to 
spend only part of the time leading and actively working on 
these head issues (practice falls perhaps, but also just getting 
mileage will make you more comfortable on the sharp end). 
But then also spend time on top rope practicing movement and 
developing strength. Perhaps read the Rock Warriors way, which is
 a mental training book. Without climbing with you I can't 
 suggest strategies to improve your mental game, but this book
  can help you identify issues and strategies yourself.Are you 
  leading the same climbs you are top roping? Or is the lead 
  wall a different section of wall to the top roping section. 
 the gym I started climbing in the lead wall was imposing and 
 a 14 meter overhang, whereas most of the top roping was vertical 
 or a bit overhung and mostly 9-10 meters. 
I had the same problems but it was because it was a different 
style of climbing. I could only do super juggy routes on the 
lead wall because it was more overhung than the other walls where 
I could pull on the crimps and slopers. But thats what  
steep climbing is all about (from my experience anyway) until 
it gets to the higher grades. Pulling on jugs, getting pumped 
and falling on moves that should be easy. 
Is it like this in your gym or are you going up the same routes
 you top rope easy and struggling hard on lead? 
Do different people set the lead routes? Just keep doin it. 
Relax. Get used to falling, get used to feeling the fear and 
climbing anyway. You'll get there. Enjoy climbing.